Sustainability

The future of coffee in the face of climate change

The future of coffee facing climate change

Arabica lives inside an extremely narrow climatic band, and that band is moving. What the projections say, what is being done about it, and why the price of coffee already reflects it.

A crop with very little margin

Arabica is demanding to a degree that makes it fragile. It needs average temperatures between 18 and 24 °C, rainfall spread between 1,200 and 2,000 mm a year, a defined dry season for flowering and, in practice, enough altitude for the nights to cool.

Outside that band the plant survives but performs badly: above 30 °C photosynthesis suffers and flowering is disrupted; with erratic rainfall, ripening scatters and the cherry doesn't arrive evenly.

That narrowness follows directly from its origins: it comes from the highland forests of Ethiopia, and — as we saw in the varieties guide — almost all cultivated arabica descends from a minuscule handful of plants. Little genetic diversity means little capacity to adapt.

What the projections say

The most-cited study, published by the Australian Climate Institute in 2016, projected that the area suitable for growing coffee could halve by 2050 under continued warming, with countries such as El Salvador and Nicaragua losing most of their coffee-growing land.

Later work has refined the figure one way or the other, but the direction is consistent: suitable zones are shifting towards higher altitudes and higher latitudes.

And there's the underlying problem: moving uphill isn't an unlimited option. Mountains run out, and what lies above is usually protected forest or unfarmable ground. In many regions there is nowhere to move to.

It isn't the future: it's already visible

This is no abstract projection. Leaf rust, the fungus that devastated Central America and Colombia from 2008, spread with the help of higher temperatures in zones where cold had previously held it back. It forced entire countries to replant with resistant varieties.

And in recent years coffee prices on international markets have hit historic highs, driven largely by droughts and frosts in Brazil and erratic harvests in Vietnam. Climate volatility is already feeding through to what you pay.

What's being done

Resistant varieties. F1 hybrids aim to combine heat and rust tolerance with a good cup. It's the most promising line, with the drawback that they must be propagated vegetatively, which makes the plants expensive.

Agroforestry. Returning to shade-grown cultivation lowers the temperature of the plot by several degrees, retains moisture and protects the soil. It's among the most effective measures and requires no new technology: it's a return to what was done before intensification.

Looking to Ethiopia. The genetic diversity the rest of the world lacks is there, and the material capable of withstanding the coming climate will most likely come from it. We cover it in the article on Ethiopia.

Robusta and other species. Robusta handles heat and pests far better, and it's gaining ground — including in quality research, with the fine robusta category gaining recognition. Nearly forgotten species are also being revisited, such as Coffea stenophylla, which tolerates higher temperatures with a promising cup profile. It's in arabica versus robusta.

What it means for anyone buying coffee

Frankly: coffee is going to be more expensive and more variable. The era of cheap, always-available coffee rested on a predictable climate and on paying little at origin, and both of those are changing.

What is within your control is where your money goes. Buying traceable coffee from roasters who pay above commodity price funds the part of the chain that has to adapt — because adaptation costs money, and that money has to reach the producer.

This isn't a symbolic gesture: replanting a farm with new varieties and establishing shade are investments measured in years. Only those with margin make them.

The economic backdrop is in sustainable coffee and fair trade, and what the labels mean in the certifications guide. Our coffees, with identified origin, are in the shop.

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